Not always want you want to see at the bottom of a climb |
So we set off early as if you've ever watched Mike climb he is slow so a whole day is needed! I love you really, I'm just glad you don't fall off I think I would crap my pants if he did. Well I turned out to be the super slow one after getting stuck on almost every tricky bit of the two difficult climbs we did, I'm not too proud that I can't admit that yes I cried and was lowered off the HVS after I couldn't reach the awesome handhold round an overhang.
So less waffling, what did we do!! An early start got us to the gorge at 8am-ish, we parked up and Mike sure wasn't kidding when he said it was right next to the road with no walk in as we were plagued with traffic noise all day. We dawdled down the road in search of the Main Wall where Mike's main desire (other than me ;) ) lay waiting- Malbogies at HVS. So having followed him up an E1 before I consented and he led on up and standing at the bottom watching his careful movements definitely made me a little apprehensive. However apparently the first pitch is the most difficult so I just had to get up that and we would be fine. Mike set up and I crept up after, now when I say crept I mean, whined, groaned in frustration and heaved my way up. It
definitely was tricky! I'd say I'm a pretty fussy climber I like big hand holds and as little overhanging stuff as possible which of course was not what I got on this climb. However I hung on in there and finally got to Mike after some ungracefulness and huffing and puffing. Now comes the funny part, we swapped over and Mike went off again and got to my nemesis a little overhang that had a great hold just over and up which made it easy to conquer, so he bossed it up that and disappeared up the face. After some the rope was all pulled in and some insistent tugs I figured he was safe so I unclipped his belay and followed him.... well about 5 metres to the overhang where I miserably failed at reaching the jug hold. I swear to god Mike has gorilla arms in comparison to his body and I have stubby ones! I found myself at a loss to find anything else I could reach to get me up, so followed a few minutes of screeching up to Mike that I couldn't reach. I then heard in a lull of the traffic "lower you down" and I started going down. Which was pretty wretched I hate it when I can't do things!!!
On getting to almost the bottom (there's a bit of a scramble up to the main base of the cliff) I freaked Mike out by untying as he was going to reshuffle things and give me more rope but I wanted off that stupid thing I gave up on and marched myself off to the bottom in shame. Mike abseiled down collecting his gear before we walked to the top to collect the rope and admire the view. One silver lining was seeing a peregrine falcon (which were nesting on the face next to us, causing some restrictions on climbing) as I was sulking at the bottom.
Mike however really enjoyed the climb and of course anyone who knows his obsessive nature trotted off to do an easy one, mainly to cheer me up I think, but hey I didn't mind! So it was off to the
Morning Slab and Evening Wall section to do the Arete- VDiff which linked onto Bob's Climb VDiff connected by the very aptly named Lunchtime Ledge. The Arete was a really nice little climb and easy so of course fickle me liked it, we had some biscuits sitting on lunchtime ledge in the sunshine before sidling over to start Bob's Climb. Mike headed out over the slopy ramp and got up a little step and then basically headed right and up a steep little bit to the top. I followed and all was good, definitely a theme for all the routes we did was the annoying amount of polish on the rocks. It definitely is unnerving when you're balancing on your feet and you shoes slips a little, it does not give feelings of complete security in the rock.
I got up the top flopping myself over like a beached whale across Mike's lap as he always likes to sit on the ledge and watch over me but makes things awkward when I tried to top out, so I plopped myself down on the cliff top amid a few bird watchers with enormous cameras!! Obviously watching out for the peregrines which we had seen at the bottom fly up to it's nest and fly around again. The ironic thing was, we seemed to see them as we were climbing but they never appeared when we saw the birdwatchers, devious birds.
So back down we went via the descent route and back along the road probably looking like goons to most people kitted out with helmets, jingly metal things at our waists and harnesses walking along the road. Then I was led onto another classic of the wall Piton Route VS. This route was definitely made harder because of the polish I actually bypassed the crux section by going left and up that way quite deftly if I do say so, then I went on and cheated a little pulling myself up with the rope to get over a lip due to a loss of hand holds that I felt comfortable with, my crimping and pinching skills are most definitely not on par with Mike's. But afraid 'll make his head grow too big I won't praise him too much!
The next pitch was a shorty and Mike whipped up it and I came scrambling after. It was the last I really enjoyed, on seeing Mike go slowly up a steep section at the very beginning (I think mainly due to a lack of protection around it) when it was my turn, I thought I would struggle but surprisingly got up without much fuss. I do surprise myself sometimes, I made Mike laugh by whooping up to him and doing a little dance singing I got over it (he was peering over the edge watching my progress). After that I quite liked it, probably because of the three pitches it has the easiest technical grade at 4b but even so I really enjoyed it.
At the top we discussed whether to do another as it was only half 3ish but then thunder struck, literally it started thundering and weird hail stones starting hammering down. Squishy ones like polystyrene balls but still fell with some force which made me laugh when I saw the bowed head and wincing face of Mike helmetless while they bounced off my beautiful green helmeted head mwahaha
The joke was on me though after I took quite a slip and slides walking down the steep descent path, gripless rubber shoes, hailstones and wet ground make for an entertaining walk. Safely at the bottom we headed back to our damp stuff and packed up. Climbing on wet rock wasn't very desirable for lazy me so we headed back, only to look back at the drying out but I hustled Mike into the car and we drove back. Which was great actually because we turned up in time for dinner and had a good night's sleep, waking up to some brambly scratches and sore muscles or at least on my part, Mike is a climbing machine and is hard as nails. Except when tickled then he's a useless pile of squirming mush, told you I couldn't compliment you too much ;)
We rock ugly faces |