Click on me for more photos |
As evidenced by the title, Nyika (neeka) national
park means the source of springs. Probably because it is one of the highest
point in Malawi, the highest point being on Nganda mountain which apparently
lies at 8552ft above sea level which is rather spectacular. The plateau is in
itself a remarkable place driving along bumpy potholed tracks you see an ever
changing landscape of rolling hills and grasslands not too dissimilar from the
Yorkshire moors at first glance. On second glance eland, bush buck (or Nyika
impala) are seen, pine forests appear and rock outcrops pop out. One hill gives
way to another until as far as the high eye can see are ranges that disappear
north east and south into the park and west into Zambia, the park being on the
border of Malawi and Zambia. Eruptions of small birds burst out of the grasses
as our Izuzu blunders past and resettle again before we have a chance to see
anything apart from a brown rump. I believe birds have a sixth sense for these
things, evolution seems to have given them the ability to know when a camera is
pointed their way. For the bird lovers a few we have seen both are; Denham’s
Bustard, Francolin, Spotted Eagle Owl, Common Quail and an Ogre Buzzard. We
also saw an unnamed black eagle and some sort of falcon in the morning. Other
wildlife we spotted include; eland, roan antelope, bush buck, zebra, warthog
(who are also very adept at running away from the camera), hares. And finally
the jewel in the crown, during the night drive a pair of red reflective eyes
amongst the long grass revealed a serval cat, an absolute joy to see. I have
only ever seen them on television and to see one sat their yawning in the grass
ready to start its night time hunting I was certainly chuffed.
We have been able to see a variety of areas
on our drives through the park, setting off early we headed for Chisanga Falls
this led us to some rough track and down into forested valleys which probably
hid the few elephants that are around this time of year. This area had a hidden
gem feel to it and it did reveal some wonderful views as well as a temptation
to continue along the road to one of the most northerly of Malawi, Chitipa. We
have also done one of the small northerly loops (still about 20km long) and we
were immediately graced by more spectacular views, even more so that we had
seen already. The area had such character, the blossom of colour and flora in
the valley bottoms created mini oasis’ in the folds of the hills and
surrounding the springs. A very familiar plant also lurks around which is a
pest here, fern! Here thanks to the peculiar grey colour, it takes on a
beautiful quality as its spattered around the contours of the hills making the landscape
seem like an old man’s unshaven beard.
By this point I had taken over the reins of
the car and was lead navigator of the tracks, bumps and grooves with success
and even traversed my first rickety bridge, I was thoroughly enjoying myself
bouncing along in charge of a huge 4x4 absorbing all the views (of which I will
not stop going on about, it is amazing!). We headed round our loop and were
rumbling toward our temporary home in the pine trees. Pine trees may seem an
odd thing to find in an African national park however they were brought over by
of the British (along with the fern) and are grown and cut down in certain
areas of the park.
On the afternoon/evening drive we saw much
of what we’d already seen but in slightly greater numbers and we were able to
put names to the game which we had currently only been able to call antelope or
deer thingy ma bobs. We parked up on a rocky outcrop to fully enjoy the sun set
with biscuit and tea in hands, it did not disappoint. There peeking through the
cloud was the unmistakeable African red sun, I think it is so red because of
the dust here which gets everywhere!
Setting off again it was on to the
spotlight and scanning the surrounding for any eyes reflecting the light, we
saw more zebra and bush buck there was also a Denham bustard we scared away and
a spotted eagle owl which was rather cool, a good moment but the great moment
as I’ve said was the serval cat sitting posing for us. An absolutely stunning
creature, we could see the spots and stripes and the big radar ears which
blended it perfectly into the grass as well as equipping it for night time
hunting. We didn’t see much more of note on the way back but I did stand up to
poke my head out of the sun roof and properly admire the heavens laid out above
us and the crescent moon casting its eerie unnatural light, spec-tac-u-lar!!!!!
The ultimate serenity of this place is brilliant and I want to come back in the rainy season when it is transformed into a rainbow of colours and lushness and the elephants come back up. The comfort and luxury of the lodge makes it an ideal holiday spot, even the campsite is in a great little spot if you do it on the cheap. The only challenge is to get your 4x4 up and down the dodgy track and from there it's plain sailing!